| A
land that time forgot: Shalatein
and its people |
This
special city offers many fascinating features,
combining trade, history, and culture. My
first encounter with Shalatein goes back
about fifteen years when a group of friends
from Heliopolis in Cairo went there on a
fact finding trip for a Tourism Company.
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Needless
to say they had been furnished with all
required documents and equipment enabling
them to travel to this little known destination,
on the south east coast of the Red Sea.
I remember being fascinated watching the
video films of this trip, which left a mark
in my memory and imagination that remained
with me until I was finally able to see
the actual place for myself in the mid-nineties.
I still remain totally fascinated by the
place and it’s peoples.
Shalateen
is located 280 km south of Marsa Alam and
is divided into three main parts; the port,the
market and the residential area. A desert
forest of acacia trees makies a good contrast
to the semi arid area surrounding the city.
The birds of prey, particularly the Egyptian
vultures are often seen at the outskirts
of the city feeding on the remains of dead
camels. Other species of bird's, including
crows and falcons can be easily spotted
in this region.
The
Harbour of Shalatein is located to the north
east of the city in a very small bay hosting
a number of local traditional fishing boats
with their red, green and blue paintwork.
The port is not accessible to divers, though
it is used by fishermen from all over Egypt.
Outside the harbour traditional one storey
buildings house the governmental and administrative
authorities. They all seem freshly painted
(by contrast to governmental buildings in
the rest of Egypt), and the city gives the
impression of being well planned with plenty
of open space between the buildings.
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All
main roads are clearly marked with signposts
in Arabic and English. Probably the
most interesting part of this city is
the camel market (Souk El Gemal), and
its surroundings. The city is mainly
inhabited by two tribes, the 'Basharin’,
and the ‘Rashaida’.
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The
former belong to the Beja nomadic tribe
who live mainly in the Red Sea hills
between Egypt and Sudan, and along the
coast of the Red Sea to Eritrea.
Both the Basharin and Rashaida have
their own history, traditions and life
styles but they have a common interest
in the land and their camels.
The
Beja have lived in this area for some
six thousand years. Kingdoms have come
and gone but till today they have managed
to keep their original language and
culture, which is a mix of Nubian and
Arabic and still remain ethnically distinct.
They almost lived without any central
government or control until the early
nineties when the Egyptian Government
implemented a social structure for the
inhabitants. Most of them carry dual
nationality - Egyptian and Sudanese.
They build no towns, nor other fixed
habitations, their custom is to wander
from place to place with their cattle.
Historians
and medieval Arab writers mentioned
them a lot due to the old trade routes
that ran through this area. The Red
Sea route was one of three main trade
routes between Europe, the Mediterranean
ports and Egypt.
Camel caravans carried goods via the
river Nile through the Red Sea Mountains
to the Red Sea coast at Berenike located
100 km to the north of Shalatein. Other
harbours and ports on the coast served
the final destination to the East. The
other two routes were the silk route
through central Asia and the spice route
via Iraq to the Persian gulf and India. |
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the sixth century christianity
was widely spread here due to
the influence of the Nubians living
in the Nile Valley.
During the Mamlouky era in the
thirteenth century they converted
to Islam. The other tribe, the
Rashaida, migrated from Saudi
Arabia about two hundred years
ago. Also ethnically distinct
and a very tough people, they
wear brightly coloured clothes.
Purple galabeyas for the men and
red dresses with coloured scarves
for the women.
Both tribes live on the outskirts
of Shalatein. The Bashari houses
are made from the wood of acacia
trees covered in carpets woven
from palm tree fronds. |
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Beja tribes, particularly the
Basharin became very busy stations
for transporting goods to India,
Africa and the Mediterranean during
Roman times.
The
women usually do the building
and take care of the house. It
is seemingly not fitting for the
men to deal with the house, strangely
enough it is they who milk the
camels and goats.
In
the camel market you will notice
the different dress codes, their
clothes almost like uniforms for
these tribes. The ‘galabeya’
is a long loose gown worn by men
and the ‘ema’ is the
headdress, a long piece of fine
cotton cloth twisted then wrapped
around the head, turban style.
The ema for the Bashari men is
at least 4.5 meters in length.
There will be many groups of men
sitting on the sand negotiating
the price of the camels, and other
important things. There are herds
of camels wandering around, all
branded with their different owners’
signs. They have been travelling
from Sudan on a journey that takes
between thirty to forty days. |
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A
camel has no real price,
the buying and selling of
these animals is only the
financial equivalent of
the need (or desperation),
of the buyers and sellers.
Camels produce milk, leather
and meat.
These days camels are sold
mainly for their meat, which
is very healthy having very
low cholesterol, and virtually
no fat.
The camel herders, who have
traveled with the herd from
the Sudan, are usually equipped
with (apart from their camel
whips), a long knife and
wooden bowl, which is used
for mixing flour with water
for their meals and to give
camels water when required.
Last
and not least is the supply
of coffee and a simple coffee
grinding machine, which
is normally carried in a
bag made of goat's skin.
Like their camels they don’t
need a lot of water, one
litre of water can last
for two days!
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| Shalatien
is in a remote area with no access
to the internet but satellite
phones are visible all around
so business is done in the open
air. All the men standing or sitting
near the camels are traders with
lots of money in their possession.
One
business transaction, simply cash
in the hand can be up to 10 thousand
Euros passed casually over the
sand. The coffee shops here are
very different to those in big
cities. Even the preparation of
the coffee is unique. Coffee is
made in a utensil called a Gabana,
a small pottery flask with a long
neck. First the coffee is roasted,
then ground and ginger is added
as the flask is heated over charcoal.
After coffee drinking its time
for lunch, which is usually the
traditional Egyptian dish of Foul
Medames, brown beans cooked in
a special pot over hot charcoal
in a hole in the ground. Another
typical dish is ‘Salad’,
which is the name for goat meat
grilled on hot stones and quite
tasty even if a little tough!
The market is full of many little
wooden stores selling herbs, cloth,
fruits and vegetables, with a
much larger variety than can found
or bought in Marsa Alam. |
There
is always the sound of African
and Arabic music in the background
making the business of buying
and selling more like a social
occasion.
Souvenir shops are not abundant,
maybe only four shops in total
but you need a very good GPS
to find your way to them.
You will definitely find many
interesting things to buy, from
silver to leather, pottery,
knifes, swords and sheilds.
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All well crafted and beautifully
decorated with traditional designs.
The
same items that these nomadic
tribes use in their daily routines,
not cheaper, less well made versions
for tourists - think sheesha pipe!
A fascinating city, with fascinating
peoples, well worth a visit if
you ever get the chance. |
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By
Ayman H. Taher
(Managing Director Blue Heaven Holidays) |
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Travelogue:
