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"Spring 05"
 
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   Travelouge:

WADI EL GEMAL PROTECTED AREA
PART ONE

by: MOHAMED IBRAHIM HABIB

TAKE ONLY PHOTOGRAPHS,
LEAVE ONLY FOOTPRINTS

Nature tourism is often used to link wildlife management with economic incentives to promote conservation, particularly in developing countries. It is also becoming an increasingly important component of the global tourism product.
Eco-tourism is a nature based form of specialty travel defined by The International Eco-Tourism Society (TIES) as “responsible travel to natural areas which conserves the environment and sustains the well-being of local people.” This definition has been widely accepted, but does not serve as a functional definition for gathering statistics.

The Size of the eco-tourism market, Ceballos-Lascur?in (1993) reports a WTO estimate that nature tourism generates 7% of all international travel expenditure (Lindberg, 1997). The World Resources Institute (1990) found that while tourism overall has been growing at an annual rate of 4%, nature travel is increasing at an annual rate between 10% and 30% (Reingold,1993). Data which supports this growth rate is found in Lew’s (1997) survey of tour operators in the Asia- Pacific region who have experienced annual growth rates of 10% to 25% in recent years (Lindberg, 1997).WTO (1998) stated that ecotourism and all nature-related forms of tourism account for approximately 20 percent of total international travel.
Wisely and economically speaking we should use the ecotourism road to protect, maintain our natural resources and increase our nations income, this why the next few H2O issues we will inform our readers of the Eco-lodge locations in Egypt, how to get there, which natural resources can be expected to be seen and what is the benefit of visiting the area.
Wadi el Gemal protected area
Apollonos or Wadi El Gemal-Hamata Protected Area was declared in January 2003 under Law 102/1983 for the Natural Protectorates. It is the 24th Protected Area to be declared to date and was designated due to its outstanding natural and cultural heritage resources. This area covers approximately 4,000 km of land area, in addition to about 1,600 km of marine waters.
The old name of Wadi El Gemal is Apollonos, at present the name of the Wadi el Gemal is actually derived from the shell (Giant finger conch) during breeding seasons they walk on to the beach zone at the wadi. But unfortunately after developing this area with a tourist resort, this phenomena doesn’t occur any more.

Why Wadi el Gemal ???
This area has excellent potential for tourism development given its unique natural and cultural heritage resources. One of the chief attributes that make the area attractive to tourists is the fact that the area is remote, unpopulated and under developed, with the resources still in a relatively unspoiled, pristine natural state. Such destinations are increasingly rare in the modern world and are becoming more and more sought after by tourists willing to pay a premium for the experience.
The key tourism assets of the Protected Area are the following:
Desert
The Eastern Desert is a vast area of pristine wilderness with spectacular natural
scenery with its mountains, basement complexes, limestone plateaus, and wadis. The inland ecosystem of the protected area is rich and varied. It is usually divided into the coastal desert plain and the mountain country ecosystems.

Wadi Vegetation
The protected area is characterized by a number of wadis that run eastward to flow into the Red Sea. The wadis offer large drainage systems and could be transformed into temporary water courses after rainfall. Wadis have distinctive features and characteristic plant cover; they also have an important potential vegetation due to their large catchment area. The main Wadi vegetation are :-

Zygophyllum, Tamarix, Calotropis and Salvadora Persica, which forms huge stands on sandy soil, the Bedouin use it as a toothbrush.

Coastal Ecosystem
Further from the shoreline, distinctive vegetation could be observed growing on sand dunes, forming phytogenic mounds or hillocks.


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MEN OF HONOR

PART ONE

by: Rose Azaizi

With the Diving industry in demand of more Egyptian Diving Professionals and being aware of the socio-economic problems of Egypt and the limits it places on the people, the Board of RSDASS came up with an imaginative plan to make a difference in the lives of 20 young Egyptians and at the same time achieve some of its own goals of increasing the caliber of Egyptian Diving Instructors.
Karim Helal, Chairman of the Board said “RSDASS is proud of its efforts and the graduates, but more needs to be done. With help from PADI, diving equipment companies and local diving centres, RSDASS is changing people’s lives and improving the diving industry. Our second Scholarship Program is now accepting applications, this time we are looking for 60 candidates”.
Here are the stories from three young Egyptian men – Reda, Amr and Mohamed, they are three out of the group of twenty who were the first to participate and graduate as PADI Instructors with the RSDASS Diving Scholarship in May 2003. We will trace the outlines of their stories from their beginnings to their hopes, then their RSDASS tie-in through to their transformation, and finally to their place as a PADI OWSI of the Red Sea and their plans for the future.
All three men will do much retracing of their lives as they journey forward, exploring the life left behind, which may have been just as unknown as the territory ahead, we wish them all the success for their futures.

We hope that this story will remind more individuals or institutions that grass-roots causes are worthwhile and that your actions can change the world.


MOHAMED EL KHATIB

With a high-functioning intellect, Mohamed El Khatib is much too self-aware to find talking about himself that interesting but he rekindles his story for us, with the hopes that it might be an inspiration for others to follow their dreams.
Politeness personified, Mohamed is so familiar, and so amiable, interviewing him is like chatting to a nice old friend. Listening to Mohamed talk is like floating on a flurry of cumulus nimbus. His voice is a gently accented lull, soothing enough to calm his most nervous diving students.
Teresa Simpson is his Manager at the Emperor Diving Centre in Hurghada, she wrote to me about him, ‘Mohamed known to us as ‘Momo,’ is very considerate and patient with all his students, and as we are told by our guests a lot of fun to be with. Nothing is too much trouble for him and he is a valuable asset to our team….’
All in all, there isn’t much to put a black mark against. Even his childhood would give the Walton’s a run for their money. ‘I had a lovely upbringing,’ he coos. ‘I remember it being an incredibly happy time.’ When Mohamed was three years old the family moved to Jakarta Indonesia, where his father was a professor of Islamic law (Sha’riah) at the Al Azhar University (one of the biggest Islamic Universities). A brother, one and a half years older, a sister, six years younger and another brother, eight years younger, shared the domestic bliss.
In Indonesia, a paradise in every sense of the word, Mohamed adored his playground with its lush tropical surrounds – dancing in the rain, catching butterflies, talking to his parrot and teaching his monkey tricks are just some of the treasured memories he has. Indonesia is home to the world’s largest Muslim population, the people are friendly and live a peaceful and harmonious lifestyle. Mohamed has these qualities. It is said that a child’s experiences up until the age of 5, are the ones that leave the deepest imprints, so in attitude, Mohamed is Indonesian (my speculation only).
At the age of ten, Mohamed’s family returned to Egypt - to a desert climate of endless sun and sand. The sights and sounds of his new home were a new, unwelcome phenomenon for him. Roxy-Heliopolis, Cairo was his new address and within this metropolis he retreated to the Helio Club. This was one of the very few places Mohamed could access easily and independently without restriction. Here the void he was feeling began to disappear, keeping himself busy in his free time, playing sports, mainly swimming.
Mohamed graduated from Ain Shams University in Cairo with a degree in Business Administration, although this was not the course which he had his heart set on. It was his dream to become a Graphic Animator, but Mohamed believes that he missed out on a place because in Egypt when you are a young person, the doors which open for you depend a lot on pulling strings, i.e. the connections your father has. Sadly, Mohamed’s father had already passed away.
After that Mohamed went to complete his mandatory 14 month military service & training. He was based in the surrounding area (mountains) of Sharm El Sheikh and sometimes on the seaside. One of these times, donning mask and snorkel he made his first splash into the Red Sea. The place was a non-tourist area of Ras Mohamed National Park… ‘it was eye boggling!’ to say the least. From then on he would regularly walk over 2km to snorkel there alone, this sparked some fresh thinking on where and how to live.
Mohamed’s first job was working for his Uncle at his plastic manufacturers and importers business in Cairo. In the two years there, he learnt a lot and held a top position as his Uncles assistant. Nevertheless, he knew he would never be happy there, so, on a wing and a prayer he left to go to Taba, Sinai. At the Hilton Hotel he was lucky to get a telephone operator position. He was quickly promoted to Reservations and after one year, again promoted, to Senior Reservations and Acting Supervisor. Mohamed spent three and a half years living & working in Sinai, it was an idyllic environment he felt at ease in – he told me ‘there is a lot of nice energy in the air’, there he could rekindle his ‘natural world’ sympathies.
One day Mohamed was reading the Al Haram newspaper when he spotted the advertisement by RSDASS inviting applicants for the scuba diving scholarship. ‘This is it!’ he thought ‘a chance to maybe make a dream come true.’ He sent his application off in the post and waited. Two weeks passed and to Mohameds dismay his letter had come back ‘return to sender.’ After a desperate and tricky search for the RSDASS fax number, Mohamed quickly sent his application again. Shortly afterwards Lillian (wonderful secretary to Karim Helal) called Mohamed to come in for an interview. Mohamed finally got his lucky break, he was accepted as a candidate for the OWSI scholarship.
Several months had passed but still there was no word on when the training would commence, he called sometimes to enquire but didn’t want to be too pushy, anyway, he was no stranger to heartbreak and wouldn’t have been surprised if someone else with a connection had taken his place. Mohamed stopped thinking about the scholarship and went back to his regular life. Then one day out of the blue… Lillian called to announce the start date – 20th June 2002.
For his training, Mohamed was placed with Emperor Diving Centre. He remembers how he felt at the time ‘the realization that you’re free to go chasing after dreams and wishes previously out of reach made this an exciting time.’ Mohamed’s journey from non diver to Divemaster took only one and a half months. His instructor for the OWD and Advanced diver courses was Luciano Lilus, for his Rescue course, Instructor Fe Fe (Fredrique) Morisod, and his Divemaster training was completed with Instructor Bjorn Ramault (who is now a Course Director). For the IDC he was instructed by respected Egyptian Course Director Mustafa El Sayad and the IE examiner was PADI’s Mr. Rupert. Mohamed is now qualified as PADI MSDT and shortly will be going for IDC Staff, he enjoyed all the training and admits the pressure was on for the IDC. Mohamed has been with Emperor Diving Centre since day one up until today, where he now works as a permanent full time Instructor. Even though he has been expected to work harder than ever and with all the serious stuff about being a diving instructor, his love for it has left him feeling pleased and fulfilled, rather than wrung out. ‘Throughout my time at Emperor, apart from the all encompassing proficiency of management and staff, which you can’t help but emulate, it is being exposed to people from many different countries that is a great education, this sort of time sharing, has given me a better understanding of diversity.’ The ‘gifts’ he has received through his diving are simply seeing someone enjoying themselves and being able to teach someone something new and fun. He is geared up to fulfill his promise to RSDASS – to “certify another five people as divers.” As for his other promise – “to represent and protect the Red Sea,” he says ‘this was part of my training – to respect my environment & fellow divers, so it is a natural progression for me as a teacher to pass down this message.’
Mohamed’s family, especially his dear mother have been kept regularly updated on the ins & outs, ups & downs of his diving journey, he says ‘even though I am always away, that doesn’t mean I am away with my feelings.’ His mother is just content to know that he is happy.
Mohamed has a strong sense of direction, a purpose. ‘I like everything in my life to be unique and distinguishable.’ At the same time he concedes that his plans for the future are somewhat up in the air, ‘Who knows? Life’s full of twists and turns and can change in the blink of an eye. I have some different ideas but I haven’t made definite plans yet.’ His diving has had more impact on his life than he ever thought possible, and he has one secret I cannot tell, but I can say Mohamed is about to go through a very purposeful phase of his life.
For Mohamed the sweetest victory is being able to proudly say ‘I am Egyptian, I am an Instructor and I work at Emperor Diving Centre,’ to him, this truly exemplifies the meaning of ‘Man of Honor’.

 

REDA EL SHESHTAWY

Unless you’re the jealous sort, you can’t help thinking that Reda El Sheshtawy is a great bloke. A young Marlon Brando reincarnated, he swaggers into the garden where I am waiting for him, proffers a hand and smiles like an old friend. Expensive sunglasses wrapped around his eyes and his skin is Red Sea Riviera sun-kissed. He might be the burgeoning star instructor at Divers Lodge, popular with his students and co-workers alike, but Reda doesn’t do ego.
As I interviewed him and got to know him, it became apparent that there is solidity to him and a formidably mature attitude that could have stemmed from his father & older (six years) brother who are both incredibly strong. When he was growing up in Kafr El Sheikh (on the eastern outskirt of Alexandria) they worked hard trying to build up their respective businesses in agricultural trading (his brother worked a second job to help prop up his business). After Reda graduated from Tanta University with a degree in Commerce he went to work alongside his father for 5 years. ‘I took a lot away from that,’ says Reda. ‘I’m not really fazed by anything, and I know that in order to really make something of yourself, you have to put in the time and the effort.’ For Reda the notion of working hard to reap the rewards was tested to the limit during Reda’s training from open water diver up to divemaster; he held down a full time job, working at night as the Front Office Cashier at Giftun Hotel and diving/ studying by day – this compounded by a lack of sleep would even be too much for a Trojan to bear, but Reda did it and at the end he was offered a divemaster job by Divers Lodge (then he was able to give up his hotel job).
Sorry, I didn’t mean to get ahead of myself, on with the story…Not enough to just emulate, Reda had the burning ambition to outdo both his father & brother in the same business, but this required more funds than he could make and save working for his father. Then a gutsy 23 year old, his cousin had told him about the virtues and opportunities in Lebanon. A two year stint in Lebanon working as a waiter then as a professional footballer ended in disappointment. ‘My time there was difficult and at times lonely but now I am really glad I went. I’ve had a life experience outside of Egypt and it has helped me to be a better instructor, on a social level.’
This was not the end of Reda’s intrepid travels, he returned to Egypt but only because it was necessary for his visa application to Amsterdam, Holland – where his four cousins lived and ran restaurants. A slightly dodgy travel agent organized his travel and visa’s for a nice price, it was a sort-of-round-Europe trip; Bulgaria, Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Germany, Holland. Reda made it to Poland where he waited to meet the brother of the slightly dodgy travel agent, who was supposed to arrange the visa’s to Germany & Holland. He was too late in applying and Reda’s Polish visa expired and he was sent back to Ukraine and then back to Cairo. Reda went back to work for his father for another three years. Reda has always been incredibly close to his family, he would always do anything to help his other siblings, (an older sister, younger brother and sister) in particular his sisters, one of whom was preparing to marry. Egyptian tradition requires the bride to supply all the household contents, the cost of this can run way beyond what the average Egyptian wage earner can make in a couple of years. After his sister was married and with little cash left in reserve, Reda arrived in Hurghada during the year 2000, he thought of making a go of it in diving. He was a strong swimmer and doesn’t remember when he learnt to swim because he always had, growing up close to the Mediterranean Sea. Since the first time he had dipped into the Red Sea snorkeling, he got carried away by its magic and beauty and became immersed in following his scuba diving dream. He started by making some inquiries but found that the costs were beyond his present means.
As luck would have it, one day Reda was sat in an internet café when he overheard the conversation between two of the workers, one telling the other about the RSDASS Diving Scholarship program. Without delay, he made his way to the RSDASS office and submitted his application along with the hundreds of other hopefuls. Reda guesses it was ‘just luck’ that he was selected. He was ecstatic, despite a tricky start with the first diving centre he was designated, there was a complaint about his English skills (although I didn’t find his accent particularly strong and his English was very good, he must have improved a lot quickly!) he was neglected there and he was kind of beached for a short while. He was rescued by Karim Helal (ironically, the man who conceived the scholarship program) he placed Reda in his Diving Centre - Divers Lodge where he completed his training up to divemaster with Lebanese Instructor Wassim El Rabaa. The Course Director for his IDC was Mustafa El Sayad and the examiner was Mr Rupert from PADI. For someone who worked so incredibly hard during his training I was a little surprised to hear his answer when I posed the question: “What part of the training did you find most difficult?” his answer was ‘I love diving, when you love and want something so much, there is nothing difficult.’ His favorite part of the training was the divemaster course and IDC.
Reda still works at Divers Lodge, now as a Diving Instructor (PADI MSDT & TDI Nitrox) he loves it there and says ‘I can’t imagine ever leaving.’ He explains how Divers Lodge is unique – (when the logistics of operations are set aside) it is a combination of stuff, but most distinctly it has a “young at heart” atmosphere. Reda gets a kick out of finding out what his diving guests really want to see, then schedules dive sites where he takes them down for their special underwater encounter or experience. He has an affinity with the dolphin and over the years has collected many dolphin charms given to him by his guest divers as a token of their respect and gratitude.
Reda hopes that in the future he will be able to open his own diving centre, for now it’s just a dream but Reda is nothing if not tenacious, and the more we talked, the more I realized how this just might become a reality.
I asked Reda about his promise to RSDASS “to represent and protect the Red Sea,” ‘I’m proud to be an Egyptian’ he smiles. ‘It means the world to me to be a diving instructor and it now truly makes me who I am.’ On the day he passed his IE, being aware of the responsible position he now had and determined to do the right thing, he promised himself to always be a professional and a very good instructor. Reda threw himself into perfecting his craft by watching the PADI training videos over and over again, as well as reading anything related to instructing. Nobody’s fool, Reda can’t cope with being tagged as “unprofessional” just because he is an Egyptian Instructor, he says ‘that too many foreign dive instructors are making these indiscriminate and disdainful comments’ he explains how this is disconcerting to the many great instructors who have unfairly been put in this basket. Reda insists that he and his fellow Egyptian collaborators take even more care (than the foreigners do) for marine life and guests ‘because we respect our Red Sea environment as well as ourselves,’ he says. Reda has already fulfilled his other promise to RSDASS; to train and certify another 5 Egyptians to be divers – he has certified more than 10.
Finally, a short morality tale for you – “Bad guy can’t win.” Reda is without doubt a winner; he is a ‘Man of Honor.’

AMR RUSHDY

While growing up, everything about Amr’s life was very typically middle Egyptian (ordinary). He lived with his middle class family - father a medical facilities manager and full-time mother, he is the middle child of five; two brothers, Amr, and two sisters. Amr was quiet and obedient to his parents. He enjoyed his many friendships and played football and ping pong. They had a river front home but Amr had only ever dipped his fishing rod (and toes) in the Nile. He was born and raised in the village Nakada - Kena, a town pretty much slap bang in the middle of Egypt, 60 km north of Luxor. This is a place where the majority of children have a comfortable bed in which they dream about becoming (wait for it…) a school teacher! Yes of course, how middle of the road. Strange, then, that this young man should be dreaming of something a little more out there. But the young Amr was already showing signs of single-minded determination when he enrolled to university to be a physical education teacher, a move that would characterize his later life and career.
The next few years at Asyut University (280 km north of Kena on the Nile river) were enormously mould-breaking for Amr. Through his course he learned to swim and became a lifeguard, he also qualified as a volleyball referee and gained massage, jacuzzi and sauna qualifications, as well as gaining desert safari camping skills. During his school holidays he filled the role of lifeguard and volleyball referee on the beaches of Alexandria – here he displayed an extraordinary talent for taking charge and giving direction. “I realized it was not just about me that I cared about” he said, “I started to become excited about sports and the outdoors. I was interested in leading people in activities and doing something different”. The beach became a magic classroom for him, giving him real life lessons and along with this his self esteem grew.
18 June 2002, had started like any other university day for Amr. With less than 2 weeks until exams and graduation, his mind was on securing good grades and then getting out of university to search for interesting employment. Then his uncle, Amged Mostafa asked him to make a trip to Hurghada, “when my uncle asked if I had thought of scuba diving as a career, I was so happy”. Amr told me “it’s a job I never thought I could do because of my countries low economy, but I was always fascinated by the films I saw on TV about diving and the underwater world”. Naturally his conventional family felt very cynical about the idea. And like so, the spawn was released into the big blue...
Chance, divine intervention – call it what you will. After two days Amr was in Hurghada and meeting the man who would change his life forever – Karim Helal. His uncle knew Karim from the Captains Bar of the Intercontinental Hotel, where, over the many years Karim would have his meetings and the uncle worked as a Bar Manager. It didn’t take long before the chat turned to diving and Amr expressed his interest to Karim, after which Karim invited him to apply for the traineeship. Amr returned to Asyut University and completed his exams on the 11th of July 2002. The very next day he was back in Hurghada at Divers Lodge Diving Centre for day one PADI Open Water course with Dive Instructor Wassim El Rabaa, Amr says this is the course he enjoyed the most out of the entire traineeship program. The training from OWD to OWSI took just over ten months to complete. When I asked Amr what part of the training was the most difficult? He answered breezily that he had enjoyed the entire program and that there was nothing difficult, perhaps that may have something to do with his mentor - described by Amr as a “completely great instructor” Hassan Abdel Aziz took Amr from Advanced diver up to Divemaster. He took his IDC with the respected Egyptian PADI Course Director Mustafa El Sayad. The Instructor Examiner was PADI’s Mr Rupert.
On the 26th of May, 2003 Amr Rushdy became a PADI Open Water Scuba Instructor. But all the excitement of his success and the celebrations, his diving and his new career plans were to be put on hold, because on exactly that day he was to commence his mandatory military training and service. For the next 13 months and 19 days he was sat guarding the Aswan Bridge, always busy with tourists and not a bad place when you consider some of the alternatives but still it didn’t compare to diving in the Red Sea - for Amr, his patience was to be tested to the limit. Not surprisingly, he spent every moment of his 13 weeks holidays in Hurghada either working as a freelance instructor or just diving for fun. When Amr returned to Hurghada for good in September 2004, he was supplied free of charge all the diving equipment basics a diving instructor needs and applied for a job at the French diving centre Dune in Safaga. The owner, Lea Besse gave him a chance and within a few weeks, he had started his 2 months training. For the safety of the guests and to maintain the standards and procedures of Dune diving centre, Amr has been supervised whilst working as a dive guide on the liveaboards, Lea tells me that she is pleased with his work and if he continues this way that in six months he will take full responsibility for leading dive safari’s. In the last seven months, Amr has clocked up enough time underwater that any experienced instructor would tip his cap, he proudly claims to have dived all the Egyptian Red Sea sites, and has been captivated by the life he has encountered in his new underwater world, especially the manta rays. With the clientele being French, he is learning to parlais Française very quickly and as I observed has almost perfected the french pout, on the boat he can now teach courses in three different languages (French, English & Arabic). He has added TDI Nitrox Instructor to his diving CV, and plans to continue on a technical diving path up to TDI Trimix Instructor.
Amr’s family is thrilled with his new vocation, the only setback is that they now do not see each other often enough and each misses the other dearly. But nothing could turn Amr away from diving now ‘c’est moi’ (‘it’s me’) he says. Amr is a fine young man – well mannered and self respecting, combined with his RSDASS training he has been transformed into just the type of person to fit the bill ‘Representative of the Red Sea’. When asked about his promise to RSDASS to “represent and protect diving in Egypt’s Red Sea” he says repeatedly “for sure, for sure”, he explains how educating the divers about marine life protection is the first and most important thing. “There are so many cool things about being a diving instructor but the best is teaching people to dive” and he is eager to fulfill his promise to give back to the community by training and certifying five people starting with his friends.

Nowadays when Amr sleeps in his cabin bunk he dreams of owning a diving centre – quite ambitious I guess, but I suppose that when facing your future from the abyss, then you have to eventually go up! (If you know what I mean). To his family and the people in his ordinary town of Kena the opportunity given to him and what he has achieved is an extraordinary thing, to them he is nothing less than a Man of Honor.

 


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